Ride Whatever Makes You Happy

Date: 2nd Oct 2019
Written by: Blue Betty

This was my thought in my head this morning as I was walking to the daily grind. So many alternative “unconventional” boards being surfed these days, that are they even unconventional anymore?

I have come to admit and accept that I actually really enjoy riding not-so-short boards. Many people probably know me for not riding shortboards often, but I feel I only accept it now.  I was stubborn before – conditioned into believing that you are only a proper surfer if you shortboard. Oh, how times have changed.

I started experimenting with bigger boards when I was living in Jeffrey’s Bay six years ago when I surfed a session on an old 7’4. I actually REALLY enjoyed it. But, still believed it did not count as a proper session as the board was not high-performance and not shorter than 6ft.

I continued to mix it up between shortboards and bigger boards, only counting the shortboard sessions as “proper surfs”. However, years later, I started finding that I actually have more “soulful” fun when I surf fun-boards/minimals.  I can sit further out the back in the line-up on a bigger board (no, not to snake, I do wait my turn). I can catch the wave earlier before it gets heavier. I am more confident catching bigger waves. And, I can really drive the board without feeling as though I am going to hit a speed wobble or the board is going to fly from underneath my feet, or something.

That is just how I personally feel.

The first photograph is of me riding that old 7’4 at Kitchen Windows (J-Bay) six years ago, not realising it was starting to shape my surf style from then onwards. And, the second photograph is from a few Saturdays ago at Elands Bay where I was really understanding and feeling this fun 6’8 Torq board. How cheesy? But, it’s true!

I am, however, looking forward to reuniting with my blue 6’4 Bukit board a dear friend Holly Robertson passed on to me ever so kindly in Sri Lanka.

Moral of the story: is it conventional to ride unconventional boards? Don’t be stubborn like I was! Ride whatever makes you happy.

By Jelaine Jellyfish
Blue Betty Life

Get in Touch

Do you want to be the first to know and book for Blue Betty socials, workshops and retreats?

Fill in the contact form below and we will add you to our mailing list and broadcast group!


This helps us prevent spam, thank you.